Monday, January 2, 2012

Machu Picchu in all its Glory


We woke early this morning and left our beautiful sanctuary in Ollantaytambo to take a train to Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu. This wasn't any ordinary train. It was the Vistadome. Beautiful train. It has Cedar hardwood floors, large windows next to you and above you on the rooftop! It even had a huge window in the front of the train so we could see where we were going. They were even playing rainforest-y sounds/music. You know, the kind of peaceful music they used to play in that store Natural Wonders. It was truly mystical and surreal to take the train through the valley. We even got fed even though we had breakfast at our hotel before we left! We rode next to rivers and past dozens of waterfalls. We saw sheep, goats, llamas, alpacas, not to mention the rolling hills and mountains. We rode through clouds, small remote villages and the sides of steep mountains. When we arrived to Aguas Calientes, people didn't want to get off the train!

Once we got off the train, a person holding a name plate with William's name written on it escorted us to the bus that would take us up the side of a mountain to the entrance of Machu Picchu. This program was so awesome! Whenever we reached a new destination it was the same drill. But it made us feel special and like Carmen Sandiego. When we would arrive at our destination someone would be holding a board of some sort and it would always read, "Mr. William Warshauer." When we'd approach them, they would take us to a car that was waiting for us. The car driver would take us to either an attraction or a hotel, usually the latter. Once we'd arrive, a representative from our tour company would be waiting there with a huge smile on their face, refreshments, and full knowledge of the English language (most refreshing of all!). They would greet us, make sure we didn't have any problems, pay our cab, and sit us down. Over coffee or tea, we would get a layout and agenda for the next few days and the destination we were at. Usually we'd receive an envelope filled with any tickets we needed and an itnerary, including information for transportation and where we would be getting picked up. We'd end on talking about where we had come from and restaurant recommendations. The same happened when we arrived to Aguas Calientes. After meeting for a few minutes, we were escorted to the front of the long line to our bus. We got great seats and sat back to start our Machu Picchu adventure. 30 minutes later we arrived and entered the grounds. When you first enter, you don't see MP right away. You see a few cottages and naturally you want to go up to them to see what's in them. Once you get to these cottages and realize it's just more ruins and nothing is currently stored in them, you look up and....... TA DAAAA there it is! Machu Picchu looks amazing, even with clouds on it and in the morning mist. I had read on several sights that the best time to see MP is on a misty morning where everything looks lush and dreamy. Since the clouds were literally on the grounds of MP and it was a bit drizzly, it truly felt like a dream. We began exploring the grounds, but didn't go in too deep because we had a private tour in 45 minutes. We were provided a boxed lunch, so we stepped out to take that because we totally needed as much energy as we could get to handle the hike that was ahead. Our hotel in Ollantaytambo did a great job packing us a lunch. It came in this super cute box and it had two sandwiches (William and I had our own boxes so each of us got two sandwiches!). One sandwich had brie, mayo, and grilled zuchinni on ciabatta. The other sandwich had some sauce and grilled chicken on ciabatta. Then it had a homemade protein bar of some sort (yummy!), a fudgey brownie, a toffee chocolate chip cookie, an apple, hard candies for later, and a mango drink. It was freaking awesome! I was so excited to see all the things they packed.

Once we ate it was time for our tour and the sun had come out in full force (William got sunburnt of course). Our tour guide's name was Frida. She had an extensive knowledge of Machu Picchu and explained every part thoroughly, and wondered why we didn't have any questions for her. Afterwards, we were free to explore the grounds on our own. Here we decided to take a trek to the Inca Bridge. It was grueling and pretty high up, not to mention, behind the mountain facing MP. When we got to the bridge, it was pretty anticlimatic. The views and rainforest-y feel of the trek and cliff was much prettier than the bridge. The view down was amazing and really scary. I cam to realize that MP is the scariest place ever. There are cliffs and drop offs everywhere. There are uneven steps and jagged rocks. There were no elderly, young, obese, or handicapped people there. Good thing too because this place is a challenge to explore. People drop like flies because of the elevation and I'm sure leg and ankle injuries are very common. If you go there, plan on getting great shoes and medication for elevation sickness. Also, don't take your parents or your children.

Machu Picchu itself was the most beautiful place I have ever been. It was so large, I can't even begin to explain how expansive it is and how little of that you can catch on camera. They need to make a 3D Imax film of this place! After doing multiple hikes and getting totally pooped out, we headed back to the bus and then the Vistadome to return to Cuzco.

The train back was peaceful. I ended up sleeping, eating, and blogging. Once we arrived back in Cuzco we went straight to bed because we had to wake up and go to the airport to head to Puerto Maldonado to continue to our last destination, The Amazon Rainforest.

Sacred Valley


Yesterday we left the beautiful city of Cuzco and took a tour with Maria Elena again, but this time through the remote Andean villages between the Andes mountains going towards Aguas Calientes, the town right outside of Machu Picchu. We went to a few beautiful native towns including Pisac and a small animal rescue. I'll start with the animal rescue. Normally I hate going to zoos, and any other animal confinements outside of nature. When she said rescue the whole bus, including two girls from San Fran and two guys from Seattle let out a sigh of relief. When we got to it, I was imagining chain link fences with shabby roofs, it was the opposite. No, it wasn't a concrete building with colorful murals painted all over them and hidden rock speakers playing fake animal noises, it was a mountain side with a glacier water-filled river running through it. Maria Elena explained that the reason this place is so important to her is not only because it showcases many beautiful national animals of Peru, but because the man who started it wanted these particular animals to have their own piece of heaven in nature that belongs solely to these creatures. Why these animals? Because they are sold on the black market in horrendous conditions. With the donations tourists leave at this place (there is no fee) the man is able to feed and get the animals medical attention they need once rescued. Again, I was beyond fearful to go into this beautiful rescue, my hands were numb and tingly. When I walked in I saw macaws walking all around holding oranges, grapefruit, and fresh bananas. There were bobcats chewing on fresh meat and condors flying around with their babies. I noticed that the macaws weren't flying and immediately became suspicious of their wings being clipped. Before I could ask, my Seattle friend did and...DON'T READ IF YOU'RE A BIRD LOVER LIKE ME...the reason they walked instead of flying is because they were sold on the black market, and 10-12 baby macaws are shoved in PVC pipes for their rainbow colored feathers. When they arrived, all of their wings were broken, and he has helped them heal but they will not be able to fly. The good news is is that they seem to enjoy walking around and eating endless supplies of fruits and berries. I also saw one sitting on a 50 year old rescued tortoise, you know, just chillin. We spent more time than expected hanging out with these free roaming animals, I even saw an alpaca drinking out of the river and then resting amongs wildflowers. Happy ending.

We then headed to the Sacred Valley. More breathtaking views from amazing ruins that haven't managed to be destroyed. The hike was long, but it was just preparation for our Machu Picchu climb. We spent about two hours admiring the Incas' engineering and carvings in the steep sides of the mountains and headed to Pisac.


Maria Elena dragges us out of the Sacred Valley and we arrived at the beautiful town of Pisac. This town was a nice stop because it is a town filled with Quechuan (Native Indians/Incans) craftsmen and artisans. They set up one of the best little market areas in the valley and the items they are selling are authentic. We went into a tiny, tiny alleyway with a silver shop in which they showed us a brief demonstration of how one puts in the colorful native stones into the 95% silver jewelry, all by hand. I was really impressed on how they take whole big rocks and make them such beautiful accents in the jewelry we wear. Their silves was beautiful. Did you know that in order to make jewelry from silver you must have copper in it? Well this is one of the only places in the world that uses as little copper as it does, and this is not information they fed me to persuade me to buy their silver (I didn't buy any), but information I looked up myself. After this demonstration we had an hour in the market. Um...I can't even explain what went down in that market place, but I will tell you that William and I were like kids in a toy store, not like Toys R Us, more like FAO Schwartz.

After shopping, shopping, eating empanadas, and more shopping we were forced to continue our journey and arrived in Ollantaytambo. Ollantaytambo is a little town with one store, two restaurants, two hotels and a train station. It is tiny, but beautiful. It's a peaceful little haven that rests next to a roaring river and between the lush, green Andes Mountains. When you walk outside all you hear is the sound of the river and birds. Our hotel was amazing. The grounds were covered in lillies, tulips, orange trees, amarylis trees and so much more. There were hummingbirds flying around and the sounds of many others. The service at the hotel was seriously 5 star. They treated us like royalty and fed us like kings. The next morning we woke up and headed downstairs and across the street to the train station to begin our journey to Machu Picchu.

Cuzco Festivities Continued!


Cuzco was truly a dream. The city is completely beautiful and the people are very genuine and sweet. We were able to sleep in for a while which was nice, it was the opposite from our Europe trip in which we only had one day off in Lucerne, and the rest was us rushing and always on the go. Once we woke up, we got dressed and went downstairs to be greeted kindly by the front staff. A cute older man ushered us to the front, modest dining area. I would sit in this dining area over any of the premier restaurants in Houston. Just like our room, this dining area had little wooden framed windows all around giving us another beautiful panoramic view of the city. Our waiter was about 5 feet tall, kindly asked us what we would like to drink and I ordered coca leaf tea. Coca leaves are most familiar in the United States as the main ingredient to make cocaine, hence the name. However, here in CuZco, it is used to help the natives deal with the high altitude, which is about 11,000 feet above sea level. As you can imagine this is not something most of us are accustomed to, especially since you are constantly walking up and down the gorgeous rolling hills. Luckily, my cousin had been to Peru and was able to prscribe us elevation pills. We never had to feel the effects of the altitude, but nonetheless I felt the need to order Coca tea. William on the other hand ordered cafe con leche and let me tell you, that was some good coffee. I tried all the French cappuccinos and coffees in Paris and Seattle, but no, this my friends, is really good coffee. I had forgotten that South America produces 70% of the world's coffee, but the stuff William gets at home is not anything like this. Neither is the "South American" free trade coffee beans we get from whole foods, or central market. Ok, the point is they had really good coffee.


The sweet old man brought out fresh breakfast which included scrambled eggs, an oat cereal, and fresh bread and some sort of berry jam that was really good. We had a filling meal and we would need it for the fun filled day ahead of us. We started out by going to Saqsaywaman-pronounced "sexy woman" hehehe. We were with a group of four other people and one of the guys from Seattle joked that when he got in, a taxi driver asked him if he wanted to go to Saqsaywaman and he responded, "It's a little earlier for that, I just want some coffee, but thanks!" This made me laugh. I would have been so confused if someone asked me that.

Saqsaywaman was breathtaking. We took a 30 minute bus ride up the hill and saw the town of Cuszco become smaller and smaller. The little orange rooftops were so cute. We saw tons of Cedar trees and drove past the Blanco Christo. When we arrived, there was a beautiful open, green field with llamas and alpacas roaming and eating. The ruins were spectacular. Maria Elena explained how these have survived and how the stones were moved up there. We were amazed to see the large pieces of rocks that were carefully selected and pieced together to make temples, terraces and shrines. I still don't understand how the Incan did all of this without machines, wheels, elevation medication, shoes, and mortar. They literally would use up to 2000 people per rock (to lift and move)and strategically place them together where they fit. These people were little, mathematical geniuses. They also used the idea of "male" and "female" parts to grid the stones together. Either way, it was quite amazing to see. Saqsaywaman also had breathtaking views of the city. I loved it.

As if the views from Saqsaywaman weren't enough, we then left to go see the water temple, Tambomachay. These temple ruins were built near glaciers. The Inca used their mathematical skills to create aqueducts that carried glacier water through the temple and to the other temples in Cuszco. I can't even start to figure out how they could create this intricate system. Tambomachay was very peaceful and the river running through it was clear and refreshing. There were donkeys and sheep roaming and the native children that live in the area were running through the green fields and playing. It was really lovely.

After this we made our way to some of the Spanish churches, which were also beautiful. Cuzco was really one of the best places I've visited. I can't wait to return to this city.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Cuzco::Lima as Austin::Houston


We started out in the morning being picked up by Maria Elena, our tour guide for the next few days. Religion is huge part of life in Cuzco. Not because everyone is constantly praying, but because it has shaped the beautiful city that Cuzco has become. Maria Elena, herself is a Catholic Quechuan, but gives great insight into the fusion culture of Cuzco explaining that Catholicism in Cuzco is different from anywhere else in that it combines superstitions from the Incan beliefs, natural Paganism, and what we all know as Catholicism. It is truly a beautiful combination and it was nice/refreshing to see cultures from opposite ends of the spectrum, come together. Gives me hope for our future. However, as mushy and sweet as this sounds, it didn't come without the Incas overcoming great adversity.

The conquistadors (that as a 4th grade social studies teacher who realizes how much crap is written in those textbooks that glorify the greed of these conquistadores) were not people that Peruvians look up to. In their reality, the conquistadors represent the stripping of their culture and way of life. Even though now many of the people of Cuzco accept Catholocism as their faith, they still resent the Spanish for shoving their beliefs down their throats. Hm... I can't imagine that being offensive...This information was very interesting to me and she went into great detail that would take me forever to go into. You're probably wondering why I am explaining all of this. Everything in the Incan history and the ruins we explored today was connected to the Spanish conquistadors. We visited multiple ruins that showcased the Incas' mathematical genius, their ingenuity, and their incomparable creativity that the Spanish were unable to match. Where Spanish churches crumbled and had to be rebuilt due to earthquakes, the Incan ruins (those that weren't destroyed by the Spanish) still stand with a strong foundation, without using the mortar and cement the Spanish used in their constructions. We ended the tour in a stunning church that showed thousands of pounds of gold encrusted crosses, altars, religious statues...really breathtaking beauty and were surprised (others were surprised, but I knew exactly why she ended the tour in this cathedral) to find out that this stunning institute of purity, morality, and holiness...would not be, had the Spanish so kindly, not have melted the gold off of every single Incan temple in Cuzco over the course of 6 months. I have a feeling that it will be a really long time until Cuzco turns into yet another money making, corporate run city, like it's friend Lima. When that time comes, the people of Cuzco will be smarter and will rely on the memories of their past and their roots to stand tall against the seemingly powerful and strong influences of Greed.

On a happier note, Cuzco is absolutely breathtaking, but I felt that in order to appreciate all that is Cuzco, one must understand its complicated history. Out of all the places I've been to, Cuzco is one of the only places I would live in. The people are so happy, have no complaints and welcome you in with open arms. They smile at you, speak in a very romantic, sweet way towards one another, and remind me that it is so important to slow down and smell the roses. Also, this city is now very near and dear to my heart because I met my first alpaca friend. He/she was so cute! I am in love (with both alpacas and this city).

The Hustle and Bustle of Lima


Lima is a beautiful city off the coast of the Pacific Ocean. Since it is right on the shoreline, it is very unique and beautiful and reminded me a lot of Barcelona. We had so much fun in Lima. We started out by exploring the Miraflores area in which we were staying in. This trendy hotspot boasts plenty of gastronomical eateries that would appeal to most foodies, and even has restaurants that reminded me of the good ole ATX that would appeal to the hipsters that dine in South Congress. Lima is now one of the top five culinary cities in the world and loves to show off its culinary fusion foods and boy do they have some good eats. Anyway, after exploring the area in which we were residing in, we took a tour of the actual city. Words cannot express the architectural beauty of this old world yet modern city. I wish I could post a picture on here, but the iPad is stupid. Anyways, the cathedrals were spectacular, but reflected the cruelty and thievery of the Catholic churches on the native peoples, the Quechua (the kings of the Quechua were known as the Incas. We always learned that the Incas were a people, but Incas were the kings of the Quechua). The cathedrals, ornate in gold and silver, were truly breathtaking, and the process of retrieval (melting them off of Inca temples and plastering them onto beautiful, but cheaply made alters) bore close resemblance to another tragedy in history: the stealing of fine jewels from the Taj Mahal by the British to try to make the English palaces less bland.

We later went to a restaurant (perfect in every way, almost) that one should not start their trip with. La Mar is one of the best rated restaurants in all of South America, and one of my student's dads, who's from Peru suggested it (and TIME Magazine). It was over an hour wait and was filled with crazy rich people dressed in their best, and then us...poor kids in denim. But god was it worth it! We devoured our appetizer, which was a piece of artwork, showcasing their finest selections of seafood. For my main course, I had a local Peruvian fish on a bed of deliciously flavored yucca, all covered in a tomato based sauce of some sort. William had a tuna steak with some other deliciousness. Til this day that is the freshest seafood we have ever had.

We ended the evening walking on the shoreline and visiting the El Beso, a statue of two people kissing and it represents two lovers in the beautiful city of Lima.

The Big City: We Arrive in Lima


​While I was dreading starting off yet another break by sitting on another long flight, the flight to Lima wasn't so bad. We started out leaving Houston and taking a short flight to Atlanta where we had an hour layover that seemed to fly because by the time we ate lunch, it was time to board. I was mentally prepared for the long 6 hour journey ahead, preparing myself for gross food, swollen feet and the biggest concern of all: boredom. Luckily, I fell asleep and when I  woke up they were serving food. I was trying to convince myself that since Delta is associated with my favorite airlines, KLM, that they would provide decent food, and I was right! Grilled chicken, stuffing, sautéed carrots and spinach, a roll, crackers and cheese, and most importantly the blondie brownie! Anyhow, with the multiple meals, fruit ninja, naps and CRAZY, STUPID, LOVE on the big screen, I was impressed. By the time the entertainment was over, we landed. Once we dragged ourselves through immigration, customs, and luggage we walked out into the passenger pick up area. This is the moment I stepped back to observe the culture shock on Williams's face. What? A smile? A confused smile, but still he was smiling. As we walked into the room hundreds, literally, of people stood behind ropes holding up pick up signs. People looked down from all around balconies at the new arrivals. All you could hear was random names being called out, the joy of reuniting families, and..."taxi!" We somehow managed to find our tour guide who did an excellent job helping us feel like we were his royal guests. We were taken to our trendy hotel in Miraflores and passed out for the night, but not before updating my Facebook status, duh.

I LOVE traveling abroad, in fact love is an understatement. However, one thing I hate about arriving in a new country is that hellish car ride from the airport to your hotel. The disregarding of traffic signs and lights, the yellow lines everyone seems to ignore, and the worst of all- the honking. Dear god, is all that honking necessary? I think not. I am not one to say that anyone should do anything the "American" way, but really, with the exception of stupid teenage girls in giant SUVs, we've got the driving down. Once we arrived to our hotel, everything was pure bliss. Since we are budget travellers we picked a "modest" 3 star hotel. What we walked into could have easily been a 4 or 5 star hotel in the states. The lounge was gorgeous, the restaurant had beautiful lighting and a floor to ceiling wine rack, and our bathroom had a rain shower! We hung up our clothes in the beautiful mohagany cabinets and before I knew it, I had passed out. Tomorrow we will explore the wonderful cosmopolitan city of Lima!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Mental Prep Begins

This time in two weeks I will be in Lima, Peru. I am having mixed feelings at the moment as I comfortably lie in my divine, over-priced, and extremely comfortable bed. I am going to miss one of my favorite things to do over Winter Break...snuggle and listen to Christmas music while enjoying some hot tea with ginger. Hmm... I guess I'll just make up for it now. Even though I know I'm going to miss relaxing and being lazy, I am glad that I get to go on yet another adventure with my world-exploring partner in crime, William. We have already begun the many small, irritating tasks that must be completed before traveling out of the country. This weekend both of us acquired the nasty little yellow fever shot! Let me tell you... it is over in less than 30 seconds, but it is so freaking painful. I'm embarrassed to say, but when the pharmacist administering the shot asked me if it hurt, I was so choked up and teary eyed, I could only let out a mere, "mmmhmmm." That little bottle of vaccination stung for hours! I got the shot in a strange place, as did William- it was under the arm! Such a sensitive...squishy place :(

Either way, it's done and over and I don't need to get another one until 2022. Luckily that was the only shot I really needed. Thankfully, my parents got me vaccinated for every other disease imaginable when I was a child and traveling abroad on a more regular basis.

The preparation, research, and time that goes into preparing for a trip abroad is so immense, however there is no way around it. I work hard now, so I can enjoy my trip to its fullest once I'm there. This trip is proving to be a challenge we have not yet had to face-preparing for an uncivilized, true adventure of its own-The Amazon. Yes, we will be spending 3 nights in the Amazon...in a lovely little cabin...with no electricity...or hot water. I can imagine that while some think of this as a unique once in a lifetime experience filled with fun and adventure (what we're thinking), many, including my mother, are thinking of us to be insane. I'll let you know who is right once we come to that. But, the reason I bring it up is that it is extremely hard to plan for! I am trying to think of anything and everything that we may need to conquer, but there are many things we probably won't be able to prepare for. Oh well. I will continue to research our upcoming travel destination, hope for the best, and enjoy the Christmas spirit now! I can't believe it is only two weeks until our exploration in a new continent begins! :)